Friday, October 2, 2009

Hammerite Rust Cap Paint FAQs

What type of application tool can be used to apply the Hammerite Rust Cap paint?

A synthetic bristle brush, ¼” mohair roller, is recommended for flat surfaces. Brush irregular surfaces. Do not overwork coating.

Can Hammerite Rust Cap paint be sprayed?

Airless Spray Gun: Pressure: 1800 – 2800 psi
Tip Size: .017” - .021”

Conventional Pressure Pot: Pot Pressure: 15-20 psi
Atomizing: 25-35 psi
Tip Size: 70-80 thousandth

What surface preparation is needed?

Remove all loose rust, paint and mill scale, by scraping, sanding or wire brushing the substrate. Remove all dirt, oil, grease, salt contamination from ocean or street salt, and mildew, using an approved cleaner, fresh water and a commercial mildew remover. Rinse surface thoroughly and let dry before continuing. Smooth or hard, slick surfaces must be deglossed or abraded by sanding or grit blasting. A new or clean metal surface that is very smooth and/or glossy, or non-porous MUST be sanded with a minimum 80 grit sandpaper. DO NOT use any rust converter, or any other acid or conversion type product to clean or prepare a rusted surface before applying a Hammerite coating. Aluminum and galvanized surfaces require a prime coating of Hammerite Galvanized and Aluminum Primer.

Professional painting practice requires previously painted or shop primed surfaces must be 'patch' tested for compatibility. Apply Hammerite to a small area and expose for 72 hours minimum and check for adhesion and any signs of lifting or cracking, etc.

How many coats should I apply?

Apply two or more coats as needed to achieve the 4-mil dry film thickness required for maximum rust and substrate protection. For brush/roller method, all hammered coatings must be applied within 4 hours or after 14 days of drying. All smooth coatings must be applied within 4 hours or after 72 hours of drying.

For aerosol use, all hammered and smooth coatings must be applied within 1 hour or after 10 days of drying.

For more information go to

Thursday, October 1, 2009

RUST DESTROYER-Corrosion Prevention

RUST DESTROYER Corrosion Prevention-Whether it's a home barbecue or a major suspension bridge that needs sprucing up, you can turn to RUST DESTROYER, a product so unique it is the only solvent-based non-toxic, patented, USDA-approved, FDA-approved universal base rust converting paint primer.
About RUST DESTROYER®With all the "rust converting" products and metal primers, why should you buy RUST DESTROYER®? You should not be forced to buy a separate primer or rust treatment for each specific job! No other product can make all these claims!
Saves you money, by not having to inventory all the other "rust converters" and different metal primers. RUST DESTROYER® the patented universal paint primer, and rust converter does it all! One SKU.
Instead of stocking all the other products use RUST DESTROYER®. The one product for all your metal needs, as a universal paint primer, and "rust converting paint primer."
Works with all the different types of paint. No restrictions.
RUST DESTROYER® is so unique it is patented.
Is non-toxic, USDA and FDA approved.
Is heat resistant up to 800of.
Has a Five-Year Guarantee.
You don't have to pour RUST DESTROYER® into a separate non metal container, as most others say.
RUST DESTROYER® can be applied by brush, roller, conventional spray or airless spray. When spraying, if you use a number 17 tip, there is no need to thin the product.
RUST DESTROYER® will work on: clean steel. rusty steel. zinc galvanized metal. hot dip zinc galvanized metal. core tan steel. aluminum. tin. previously painted surfaces. great for barbecues.
No special surface treatment needed. No sanding or deglossing needed, on glossy surfaces. Remove the loose flakes, have a paintable surface, apply product. RUST DESTROYER® is a self etching primer that "bites" into the previously painted surface.
Apply directly over rust.
NO sandblasting.
NO scraping to bare metal.
NO washing, before or after application.
NO sanding glossy finishes to improve adhesion.
Minimize maintenance by maximizing rust conversion, and metal protection.
EASY to use, simply remove loose or scaling particles, grease or dirt, and the surface is ready for the rust destroying primer.
Stops rust in sever conditions.
Outperforms all other paints in comparative tests.
Has been working in industrial, institutional, and commercial environments since 1982.
Works under a variety of finishes.
Works over a variety of finishes.
Adheres to clean and rusty steel, Zinc galvanized metal, and previously painted surfaces.
Has superior adhesion when applied directly to clean zinc galvanized metal.
Formulated for compatibility and sustained adherence to bridge paints that meet Federal and State specifications. RUST DESTROYER® when applied over new metal will prevent rusting.

For more information go to

Avoiding Touch-Up Problems

Paint touch-up can present problems at job sites due to common changes in environmental factors. In order to avoid such problems, temperature, surface porosity. time interval between applications, and the actual application method must be monitored.

An air or surface temperature difference of 110°F or greater between the last finish coat and the touch-up application can cause the touch-up coat to be a different color. This is especially true within the temperature range of 40°F— 60°F. Typically, if the touch- up is done at 10°F lower than the initial application, its appearance will be lighter in color. If the touch-up is done at 10°F warmer than the initial coat, the touch-tip will appear darker in color. At warmer temperatures, the phenomenon described above is not as predictable. The possibility of a touch-up problem still exists, but its cause may be related to other factors such as faster drying film and dry brushing.

HOW TO AVOID THIS: Touch-up work should be done under the same temperature conditions as the initial conditions. Always apply the paint when the ambient air and surface temperatures are above 50°F

Surface Porosity
Porous substrates can cause touch-up differences. both in color and degree of finish, particularly with high sheen eggshells and higher gloss finishes. An unprimed, porous substrate will absorb some of the paint’s vehicle, which results in a slightly lower sheen or gloss level. If a second topcoat is not applied to achieve the correct finish level, any subsequent touch-up will be noticeable, as it will show up higher in gloss or sheen. In this case, temperature makes no difference. A sheen and gloss difference will occur regardless.

Often, poor hiding is misdiagnosed as a color touch-up problem. if an unpainted, unprimed surface is coated with a clean white or transparent color, there may be some gaps in hiding the substrate. In order to provide the best hiding with these lightly toned colors, two topcoats are necessary. These should be applied over a primer sealer. If only one topcoat is applied and a subsequent touch-up is made, the color or sheen difference may stem from insufficient hide.

HOW TO AVOID THIS: Using a primer on porous substrates will provide the required sealing properties. In cases where a dramatic color change is taking place or a clean while or jewel tone color is being used. a pigmented primer will support and augment the hiding ability of the topcoat.

Time Interval
Time can affect how well a touch-up mark blends into the original job. Different types of paints have different final finish times. For example, alkyd based paints can sometimes take several weeks to reach their final appearance, while latexes get to this endpoint quickly. The higher the sheen and gloss, the longer the time required to completely dry and set. Certain ingredients in the paint are slow evaporators, and depending on temperature and humidity, need more time to escape from the film.
HOW TO AVOID THIS: Judge the true success of the touch-up application after a two week period.

Application Method
Touch-up problems will result when different applica­tion methods are used on the same job. A common example of this is when the initial application is done with an airless sprayer or roller and the touch-up is done with a brush. Here, the noticeable differences can be caused by variations in the paint film's profile.
The surface profile from a roller nap is obviously different from one made by a brush. When light reflects off these profiles, it will scatter the reflecting light rays differently, thus causing a color and/or sheen difference. This is why paint formulators use specific ingredients to increase the flow and leveling properties of a paint. Lastly, a touch-up mark can be noticed if there is a significant difference between the film thickness of the touch-up and the initial application. The physical difference in film thickness can cause an optical effect, particularly in higher-sheen finishes.

HOW TO AVOID THIS: Save some of the paint used at each job site for touch-up purposes. Touch-up with the same type of tools (e.g., the same size roller nap and same quality brush). In the case of an airless spray, spray some of the paint material through the gun and store for later use. When applying, do not use too much paint. Minimize the difference by lightly feathering out the touch-up with a short nap roller.
DO NOT 'dry brush' or 'dry roll'.

Other Preventative Steps
Is the finish of the selected topcoat the right finish for this job?
Long walls with light sources at either end are a touch-up nightmare.
So are walls with many surface imperfections.
For these cases, the best solution is to use a flatter finish which is more forgiving of surface and touch-up flaws.

For more information go to

Resource from Technical Bulletin. Benjamin Moore Paints.